What Is Acne?

My quest to understand acne started with questioning extraction procedures.  My Journey
But then quickly changed to what actually goes on in the body when a person suffers from acne?
What are the bacteria cells doing?
What chemical breakdowns are happening?
What is the chain reaction of events?

We were are all taught in school

Acne is caused by dead skin cell accumulation in the follicle (hyperkeratinization) mixed with p- acne bacteria and sebum, combined with a lack of oxygen.  This creates a pimple. Simply put, that is true, but there is much more that goes on. This is not for the client that has breakouts here and there during menstruation.  This research is for clients that suffer from chronic acne.

ACNE IS A DISEASE

Acne is not a skin condition, but rather an inflammatory skin disease. Acne is a disease just like any other genetic disease.  Take diabetes, for instance.  As yet, there is no known cure for diabetes.  There is insulin that helps control it, but no known cure. Acne is not as serious as diabetes, but the comparison is important. Acne also knows no cure.  We have treatments and products that keep it under control, but no known cure.

SO WHAT GOES WRONG? The chain of events that lead to acne.

1) At puberty the body starts producing testosterone
2) An enzyme in the skin changes testosterone to dihydrotestosterone
3) Dihydrotestosterone stimulates the sebaceous glands to begin producing sebum
4) In the acne-defective follicle, sebum sets off retention hyperkeratosis (acne).

The first three processes occur in everyone.  We all begin producing hormones at puberty.  Everyone's pores begin to flow with sebum in adolescence.  But it is only in the individuals with a special vulnerability to the fourth that a reaction occurs- retention hyperkeratosis, which produces the acne explosion.

HORMONES THEMSELVES DO NOT CAUSE ACNE! 

"Acne sufferers do not necessarily produce more testosterone.  Hormones merely trigger the process in genetically acne-prone skin.  Oily skin does not cause acne. True, most acne sufferers do have oily skin, but you can possess very oily skin and still never sprout a pimple.  Oily skin is just the triggering component, once again affecting only those with the genetic defect. In those individuals, sebum provides the match that ignites the acne fire."  Dr Fulton: Acne RX

Genetic Connection

Acne is often inherited as a dominant characteristic, which means that if both parents had acne approximately three out of four offspring will develop acne.  If one parent had acne, one or two offspring out of four will develop it. In addition to genetics, cultural and environmental factors could affect the entire population.

Stay tuned for my next article.  An inside look at the chemical reactions, and breakdowns that cause acne.

My Journey To Fully Understand Acne

How It Started

About two months ago I started researching esthetics message boards, as well a different groups on social media sites like Linked In.  I have always been the type of person that likes to question things we do in this field. You can't just tell me that there is a new ingredient from a remote island that no one has ever heard of that will heal all of your skin problems. NO! NO! NO! With so many products on the market we as estheticians need to question these companies, our theories, and what we believe in when it comes to skin care.

As soon as I started on my quest for understanding acne, I quickly got discouraged. I mean, there are women on the boards that have twenty or more years of experience; and they are using words like, 5a reductase inhibitors, Interlukein 1a reductase, acne Bio-films and ductal cornification.

I think I was more upset at the fact that there was so much out there that I did not know, and I thought I knew a lot. How could I have slacked off and let it get this far? I quickly decided to embrace my lack of medical terminology and dive in head first.

It All Started With This Picture

Picture was taken by Jeff Berns

Cosmetic Industry Consultant, Licensed Esthetician (RET), Master MUA, Lecturer, Speaker Dallas/Fort Worth Area. You can find him on LinkedIn, as a member of the Acne Specialist Group.  

Jeff takes many pictures with a special camera of pores that have just been extracted. The question was. How do we know if we are getting everything out of the pore after it is extracted? Which then led to.

 1) Do extractions even help?

2) With p-acne bacteria changing to a more resistant strand, are the  products we use even clearing out the follicle?

3) If the follicle closes back in a matter of two seconds, what can we do to clear it out fast enough?

As you can see, this made me question everything that I have ever done during extractions.

The End Of My Journey

Well I would like to say that I am at the end of my journey and understand everything, but that simply would not be true. When we stop learning we stop growing.  During my journey I have talked to estheticians from Australia, Japan, Europe, India, and Canada; to find out that we all have different theories when it comes to the treatment of acne. What works for some may not work for others, and that's okay. During this month I will be giving you my newly developed theories about acne, the new research we are find, and the new products that are show promise.  I encourage you to keep an open mind, and share your thoughts.

Sites To Get You Started

If you are a member of LinkedIn you can send a request to join the Acne Specialists group, it is an amazing group full of professionals that love to help others. They are all about educating and do not tolerate selling or advertising of products.

The Second group can be found on Facebook. Their page is called Aesthetician Group. You can join the message board by going to http://aestheticiangroup.yuku.com and signing up.  Once you are in go to the tab that says forum and choose "How To"  from the drop down menu.  You can fill in your information and you can gain access to the forum.  

New State board Rules Regarding Dermaplaining

Cracking Down on Dermaplaining in The NC

North Carolina has just posted on their site that dermaplaining does not fall into the scope of practice for estheticians.

Our Scope of Practice

Refers to any of the following practices: giving facials; applying makeup; performing skin care; removing superfluous hair from the body of a person by use of creams, tweezers, or waxing; applying eyelashes to a person, including the application of eyelash extensions, brow or lash color; beautifying the face, neck, arms, or upper part of the human body by use of cosmetic preparations, antiseptics, tonics, lotions, or creams; surface manipulation in relation to skin care; or cleaning or stimulating the face, neck, ears, arms, hands, bust, torso, legs, or feet of a person by means of hands, devices, apparatus, or appliances along with the use of cosmetic preparations, antiseptics, tonics, lotions, or creams.

The action of any student or licensee to violate the Board rules in the following manner shall result in civil penalty in the amount of one hundred dollars ($100.00) per instance of each action:

(1) Use of any product, implement or piece of equipment in any manner other than the product's, implement's or equipment's intended use as described or detailed by the manufacturer;

(2) Diagnosis of any medical condition or treatment of any medical condition unless referred by a physician; or

(3) Use of any product that will penetrate the dermis; or

(4) Provision of any service unless trained prior to performing the service; or

(5) Performance of services on a client if the licensee has reason to believe the client has any of the following:

(A) a contagious condition or disease;

(B) inflamed infected, broken, raised or swollen skin or nail tissue; or

(C) an open wound or sore in the area to be worked on; or

(6) Alteration of or duplication of a license issued by the Board; or

(7) Advertisement or solicitation of clients in any form of communication in a manner that is false or misleading; or

(8) Use of any FDA rated class II device without the documented supervision of a licensed 

physician.

Back To Basics

With a huge following in the natural, organic, and "Green" movement, it's no surprise that more women are taking a back to basics approach when it comes to beauty. We are so focused on living clean, so why should the products we use be any different? This simplistic take is not just about using natural or organic products but also about being more aware of harsh irritating ingredients, cheap fillers, and unnecessary preservatives.



Things to avoid

• Parabens
• Unnatural Fragrance
• Sulfates
• Dimethicone
• Dyes
• Propylene Glycol
• Artificial Colors
• Formaldehyde

With so many lab-developed ingredients on beauty shelves there's something comforting about the basics.  The fewer chemicals put on the skin, the less likely there will be irritation, sensitivities and contact dermatitis.   As you have noticed recently there are more simplistic beauty lines cropping up; so there must be a need for something more gentle for sensitive and reactive skin types.  Many people are becoming more and more allergic and reactive to their environment and this can be caused by chemicals, even if they are natural. Just because a beauty product is classified as organic doesn't mean it takes a bare-boned approach.  The products may take a little bit longer to kick in and see results because the ingredients are not as strong. Since the Anti-Aging craze started, its made it harder on us as estheticians to help our clients understand that they can't keep loading their skin with harsh acids, and intense vitamins that are in every Anti-Aging product today.If you constantly strip the skin with acids your skin will become sensitized and reactive, it's a fact.

 Jody Nash recently graduated from Rowan Cabarrus Community College and has been making a name for herself in the Salisbury area with her back to back approach to skincare. Since starting, she has found a need to offer traveling skincare. She has always been intrigued with mixing great concoctions since she worked with the Eminence skincare line in school. Here is what Jody has to say about her wonderful treatments. Check out her Facebook page.  https://www.facebook.com/JodieOnTheSpot




1) What gave you the idea to use fruits and vegetables in your facials?
I was introduced to the idea of using food when you discussed fruit enzymes at the beginning of the school year. And I thought it was really interesting so I did a lot of research on the topic. The more I learned the more excited I got to try this out on people.

2) What is your favorite natural remedies? Pumpkin seed oil is loaded with vitamins, antioxidants, amino acids, so it offers MANY benefits. I really like aloe, I've found it is effective in keeping your skin clear of blemishes; also there seems to be some pore reducing properties and you can't deny its soothing and healing properties. I add aloe to a lot of my mixtures to give it a smooth consistency.

Continued Interview with Raegan Brogdon

Business & Life Questions

1) What is the best advice you have ever received regarding your business or life? Trust your gut.  If it goes wrong, learn from it and move onto the next thing.  Thanks, Momma

2) How do you stay motivated?  If I'm not motivated those around me won't be.  So, I'm constantly reading new things to help manage and inspire people.  I think knowledge and forward thinking helps in daily life and motivates me to keep up with this wonderful industry.

3) What quote or mantra do you live by? I fall, I rise, I make mistakes, I live, I learn, But I'm alive.  I'm human and I'm not perfect But I'm thankful

4) What is the most challenging part of running a business? keeping up!  There is always a million and one things to do...it's a juggling act, just got to know what to juggle at the same time

5) How do you keep your staff? I do not have a high turn over.  The newest person on my team started working 1 1/2 years ago. I treat people with, respect and have an open door policy.  If you allow people to talk to you, their voice is heard, people need to be heard. 

6) What is your proudest moment as a business owner? Building my new spa

Fun Questions

1) What move could you watch over and over again? Sixteen candles- I've watched that movie since junior high, never gets old.

2) Early bird or night owl? EARLY BIRD!!!

3) Watching TV or reading a book? TV

4) Favorite meal? Not really a meal- but, I love fried pickles

5) What is something about you that would surprise or readers?  I hate change.  I'm constantly changing things around me but my daily routine is never  changing.